Reddit finger strength. Nothing else has ever actually improved my hand strength.

Reddit finger strength. These first years are good to practice technique, improve general body strength and your mind while leading, but I'd avoid doing a lot of fingerboard training or too many crimpy routes. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. The benefit is that you can probably do hundreds of reps with each finger versus trying something whack with weights that'll get you maybe 5-6 reps. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. If you get those little kits with the 5 different kind of instruments they do a good job of lightly working out all those lower arm/hand parts Reply reply Basicallydirt • For someone who was really weak starting off like myself I started squeezing a stress ball with each finger individually. It's a method that goes back to the 90's. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. I’ve been at this for about a month and absolutely love it. com I grew up a classical/jazz pianist and still play consistently so I've always had highly dexterous fingers, it makes me wonder if this has translated into finger strength in my fitness journey Mar 26, 2025 · The Solution: Train finger strength by hangboarding. The only stuff I've found that had any carryover to functional grip strength (for me, that means being able to not drop an 800+ pound deadlift) are plate pinches for time, double overhand fat bar deadlifts, and captains of crush grippers. Not for finger strength but I find these kind of squeeze exercise things quite good for rehabbing on off days. That said, I still struggle immensely with smaller, thinner holds. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it?. See full list on emedihealth. It takes between 1 and 2 years to build enough finger strength to not injure them while climbing a lot and hard. Simply add a load to your harness and hang two-handed or one-handed on the edge of your choice for as long as you can. I’ve noticed my form improve and I e gone from struggling with simple V2s to mastering tougher v3s. May 7, 2024 · People were writing about weighted finger curls for finger strength and endurance 5 years ago on Reddit. Stronger fingers mean you can use smaller holds—and holds that felt unhangable before will feel more manageable. In short the conclusion was, train isometrically (fingerboard) rather than with grip trainers if you want to climb better. Nothing else has ever actually improved my hand strength. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? This would result in increased muscle mass, which sounds great, but for a climber isometric strength gained from increased connective tissue throughout the forearm is preferable, which is gained from static holds. Practice your bends, hammer-ones, and pull-offs, play some chords that require you to stretch that pinky, and also pay attention to your thumb positioning! Proper fret hand technique, requires very little in the way of pure strength, like has been said, little kids are out there shredding and they can’t have too much hand strength just yet! Getting way better technique makes climbs require less finger strength, so often finger strength wasn't the limiting factor. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. Device helps improve hand strength and dexterity (backed by 2 comments) Device provides therapeutic benefits for hand injuries or conditions (backed by 3 comments) Product difficult for small hands to operate (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to summon me to ask about a product, just make a post with its link and tag me, like in this example. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip trueHey all — new caliber here. Jun 25, 2020 · The Bouldering Finger Strength Calculator will allow you to see how strong your fingers truly are. All things being equal, finger strength IS important, but if you can't use the finger strength then it's more of a net negative and reinforces bad habits (muscling through climbs) which you will eventually have to unlearn. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Dec 17, 2024 · I think the biggest thing is that even with great balance, your body weight is to going fluctuate over your fingers as you balance, so each individual finger is going to need a lot more strength than something much steadier like a fingertip L sit. vrxx lvx awnpbyt nxvzok mllc vfjhkf zgmgex xzu olm qeptw